Tempered Spirits

Homemade Cocktails — Experiments, Critiques & Travels

MxMo LXIX: Fortified Wines — Got Sherry?

mxmologo

January’s Mixology Monday is focused upon a trend that is steadily gaining steam in bars across the country: the use of port, sherry, and Madeira wines in cocktails. Sure, you can reach for the old standbys like vermouth and quinquina if you want to add some sweetness and complexity, but bitter aftertastes and quinine aren’t for everyone. That’s why this month’s host, Jordan Devereaux at Chemistry of the Cocktail, has asked us bloggers to mix with those wines that were tailor-made for shipboard and wintertime storage. [UPDATE: check out the round-up post!]

While I love a good glass of port, sherry and Madeira are taking some getting used to. Port is wonderfully fruity, full-bodied and sweet, but I still have a hard time thinking about something other than a mouthful of raisins when sipping sherry. Plus, sherry seems like something that grandmothers, Napoleonic-era naval officers, and Sherlock Holmes’s wealthier clients would sip in drawing rooms.

Nonetheless, over the past few months I’ve managed to dig up some sherry-inclusive cocktails that I find very enjoyable. While they have proven instrumental to acclimating myself to the wine, these drinks also employ some interesting flavor combos that I never would have thought to try. Lesson 1: Tequila + Sherry = Deliciousness!

Sherry Cocktails (3 of 4)

La Perla #2

  • 1-1/2 ounces Siete Leguas Reposado Tequila
  • 1-1/2 ounces Lustau Amontillado Sherry
  • 3/4 ounce Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot

Stir with ice and strain into a coupe. Garnish with an orange twist.

Adapted from the La Perla, created by Jacques Bezuidenhout, San Francisco, 2005. Found in The PDT Cocktail Book.

I’ve yet to try the La Perla in its original form (Partida Reposado, Lustau Manzanilla, Mathilde Pear, lemon twist), but my gerry-rigged modification worked out rather well. What I love about apricot liqueur is that it acts as a kind of binder, weaving the vegetal agave and sweet, raisin-like sherry together. This drink made me realize the potential of agave spirits in cocktails, kinda like the Frostbite’s tequila-cacao combo, which is an eye-opener (as is Clyde Common’s Eggnog, a better-known combination of sherry and tequila). Adding a lemon twist to the Perla brings out an odd, metallic flavor and overwhelms the finer points of the ingredients, so I opted for the sweeter, gentler oils of the orange peel. If you’d like the sherry to stand out a bit more, go with a slightly milder reposado along the lines of Cazadores.

Sherry Cocktails (2 of 4)

Spanish Bay

  • 1 ounce Dry Sack Sherry
  • 1 ounce Green Chartreuse
  • 1 ounce Orange Juice

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass or coupe. No garnish.

Created by Chris Hannah for Arnaud’s French 75 Bar in New Orleans. Found in Robert Hess’s Essential Bartender’s Guide.

Very good!  The Spanish Bay is full of fruit, herbs, and sweetness, tempered by mild acidity. Though it looks a bit murky, the drink is a winner. Floating around the edges is a taste that brings a Five Spice blend to mind (of all things).

If you’re wondering what “Dry sack” sherry is, it’s simply a dry sherry, “sack” being an antiquated English term for fortified Spanish wines. While there is, in fact, and company named Dry Sack that produces a medium sherry, try out different sherries for different effects, and don’t be afraid of blending them. For instance, I blended an amontillado and a cream sherry(which is a blend itself) just to gain a bit more sweetness and the drink turned out perfectly. Using only amontillado, the Chartreuse dominates.

Confused by all these names and types yet? So was I. Sorting through sherry’s incarnations and categories is one of the wine’s more intimidating aspects, but such classifications exist for nearly all distilled spirits — Scotch, tequila, brandy, you name it, it’s been categorized, and oftentimes the differences are slight. For a basic guide, check out Wikipedia (surprising, yes, but helpful). Amontillado, oloroso, cream, and Pedro Ximénez seem to used the most in cocktails. The drier sherries — fino and manzanilla — are better as apéritifs, while the sweeter varieties – Pedro Ximénez and cream — are best left for dessert, should you end up sipping the stuff neat.

Finally, we have a relatively straightforward drink from the Left Coast…

Sherry Cocktails (1 of 4)

Montresor and Fortunato

  • 1-1/2 ounce Emilio Lustau amontillado sherry
  • 3/4 ounce Grand Marnier
  • 1/2 ounce Carpano Antica Formula vermouth
  • Lemon and orange peels, for garnish
  • Three olives — Spanish, queen-size, pitted but not stuffed — on a pick, for garnish

Stir with ice and strain into a cocktail glass or coupe. Express the oils of the lemon and orange peels over the drink, then discard the peels. Garnish with the speared olives.

Created by Damian Windsor. Found in Left Coast Libations.

Named for the vengeful murderer and his victim in Edgar Allen Poe’s “The Cask of Amontillado,” the drink is smooth, slightly sweet, and subtle, changing significantly as it warms. The flavors seem to emerge sequentially — first comes the grape and oak of the sherry, followed by the vanilla-laced fruit and bitterness of the Carpano, topped off with the mellow orange of the Grand Marnier. The citrus remains surprisingly subdued. While I’m not really an olive fan, they do make for a nice little accompaniment to the drink — the Monstresor and Fortunato seems lonely without them and their saltiness, in fact.

So, find a bottle or two of sherry, do some research, and mix up some cocktails. You may not want to drink the stuff straight — yet — but I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised. If worse comes to worse, you can always make a lovely sauce with what remains. Cheers!

Sherry Cocktails (4 of 4)

“For the love of God, Montresor!”

“No, for the love of Sherry.”

Photos by IJL.

About these ads

5 comments on “MxMo LXIX: Fortified Wines — Got Sherry?

  1. vmixologist
    January 22, 2013

    These all look great Ian, def gonna give em a try…really enjoy the combo of tequila/sherry-
    Zach

    • IJ Lauer
      January 22, 2013

      Thanks, Zach. If you like tequila and sherry, you’ll probably like the El Molino, which uses smoky mezcal and sherry.

      Your post for MxMo looks delicious, as well — and I just happen to have a bottle of Lillet Rose that needs opening!

      • vmixologist
        January 22, 2013

        funny you should mention, it was one of the first ones I made from the PDT book, is very good indeed

  2. jakegittes
    May 1, 2013

    Come now, are we too taken with the modern spirit to consider something a bit more classic? A quarter deck, perhaps? Flame of love? fog cutter? Or a personal favorite: east india #2.

    But then, I wouldn’t know amontillado from sherry.

    Luchresi

    • IJ Lauer
      May 2, 2013

      The Fog Cutter gets an “OK” vote — not one of my favorite Tiki drinks, but certainly a classic. Have yet to try the others, though the Flame of Love and East India No.2 seem a bit dry for my taste. Still, will have to give them a shot.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 54 other followers

%d bloggers like this: